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Saturday, 11 July 2026

Jacquard's Invention

 


My latest feature in my industrial revolution series for Jane Austen's Regency World magazine is on M. Jacquard's loom. 'Figured' fabrics were decorated with intricate patterns. Since ancient times, a draw-loom or draw-boy loom was used for weaving figured damasks. 

Some versions of this loom required a child helper to perch on top of the loom to help the weaver create complex patterns. This was a slow, expensive process, and several inventors simplified the loom to do away with the need for a child helper on top. 

Then early in the nineteenth century, over in France, M. Jacquard's new invention caused a stir.

His loom, which used a combination of punched-cards, hooks and needles, enabled far more intricate patterns to be woven. But the silk workers in his home town of Lyon were violently opposed to his machine, and broke up his loom in the public marketplace. 

Nevertheless, by the late 1820s, the Jacquard loom was used in Britain for weaving furnishing fabrics in silk, worsteds, cotton and wool in a variety of  designs.

Illustration from my collection: Powerlooms stuff manufacture. Jacquard powerlooms are on the left of the picture; looms surmounted by a 'draw-boy' apparatus are on the right.  Pictorial Gallery of Arts. Vol. 1, Useful Arts, The London Printing and Publishing Company, (London, c.1858)

Monday, 29 June 2026

Regency Cheshire Talk


I'm pleased to announce that on Wednesday 22 July, I will be giving a talk on 'Regency Cheshire' at Tabley House near Knutsford, Cheshire, at 2.30pm in the Picture Gallery

I hope to see you there - it's a wonderful Palladian setting, and I'm very much looking forward to meeting everyone!

Monday, 9 March 2026

Wickham's 'Blue Coat'

 

Merino sheep produced short-staple wool suitable for cloth.

My latest feature for the March/April issue of Jane Austen's Regency World is on the increasing mechanization of the woollen industry.

Wool was such a ubiquitous material that 'cloth' was synonymous with woollen fabric. 

 Despite cotton's increasing popularity, woollen cloth was still essential for warmth in Britain's unpredictable climate. Fashionable gentleman like George Wickham in Pride and Prejudice wore blue cloth coats.

A wool-carding machine.
Short-staple (short-fibre) wool was used for cloth, and a fleece required a great deal of cleaning and processing before it could be spun into thread and woven into cloth.

It was primarily the processing of the yarn which moved into the factories during late Georgian times; 'carding', 'scribbling', 'slubbing', and spinning on machines like James Hargreaves' spinning-jenny. 


A slubbing-machine or 'billy'. 


I'll be covering the innovations in the worsted industry in the May/June issue. 

Monday, 5 January 2026

Letting Off Steam


 My latest feature for Jane Austen's Regency World (January/February issue) is on the progress of steam-boats during Austen's lifetime. 

The Charlotte Dundas, financed by Patrick Miller of Dalswinton, and powered by a William Symington-designed engine, was trialled on Dalswinton Loch on 14 October 1788. 

Images: 

Left: ‘The first steamboat’, by Alexander Nasymth. Smiles, Samuel (ed.), James Nasymth Engineer; An Autobiography, John Murray, London, 1883. 


Right: Henry Bell's Comet, 1812. This was Britain's first successful passenger steam-boat. 

 The British Merchant Service, Sampson Low, Marston & Company, Fetter Lane, London, 1898. Nigel Wilkes collection. 

Friday, 19 December 2025

Happy Christmas Everyone!

 


Happy Christmas everyone! I hope you all have a wonderful Christmas and New Year. 

Image: A lady in evening dress - perhaps in mourning. Ackermann's Repository, December 1818. Courtesy New York Public Library. 

Tuesday, 16 December 2025

Jane Austen 250: Happy Birthday Jane!

 

Willoughby asks Elinor to stay.

Today is Jane Austen's 250th birthday! Pop over to my Jane Austen blog so see my highlights of her bicentenary year. 

Illustration by Charles Brock for Sense and Sensibility. Willoughby asks Elinor to stay. 

Sunday, 9 November 2025

A Visit To Thiepval

 

Thiepval Memorial. 
Over ten years ago, we paid a visit to Loos Memorial so that I could pay my respects to my great-uncles Harry and Herbert Dickman, who died in 1916. This year, I was lucky enough to visit Thiepval Memorial, where one of my 'cousins', John William Dickman, is commemorated, and to pay my respects.


 

J W Dickman, Thiepval. 

John was the son of John and Mary Dickman, of 38, Kay St., Lower Openshaw, Manchester, and he served in the 8th Battalion of the East Lancashire Regiment. He was only 24 years old when he died on 15 July 1916 - just two weeks before my great-uncle Harry was killed. (Herbert died earlier that year). 

What a terrible year that was for my family. 


Photos copyright Sue and Nigel Wilkes.